Pu Sae and Ya Sae

Statues of Pu Sae and Ya Sae in their shrine at the foot of Doi Kham.

Pu Sae and Ya Sae (Thai: ปู่แสะย่าแสะ; lit. Grandfather Sae and Grandmother Sae) are a pair of ancestral spirits, often depicted as giants (yaksha), who are venerated as the guardian spirits of the Chiang Mai valley and the Doi Suthep-Pui mountain range. Rooted in the pre-Buddhist animist beliefs of the indigenous Lawa (or Lua) people, their legend is a cornerstone of Lanna folklore, telling a story of transformation from cannibalistic ogres to powerful protectors of the city and its watershed.

The veneration of Pu Sae and Ya Sae is most prominently expressed through an ancient and dramatic annual ritual known as "Pithi Liang Dong" (พิธีเลี้ยงดง), the "Feast of the Forest," which involves the sacrifice of a water buffalo to appease the spirits and ensure the region's prosperity and environmental stability.

Legend

The legend of Pu Sae and Ya Sae appears in ancient documents such as the Tamnan Phuen Mueang Chiang Mai (Chiang Mai Chronicle), the Tamnan Chiang Mai Pang Doem (Original Chiang Mai Chronicle), and the Dharma Tamnan of Wat Nantharam, as well as in contemporary documents like the Legend of Phra That Doi Kham. In addition, it also exists as a folk oral tradition, which often contains more elaborate and fantastical content.

All versions of the legend emphasize the importance of Pu Sae and Ya Sae in their role as the "Kao Phi" (เก๊าผี), or the "progenitors of the spirits," for all of Chiang Mai. This is because they had as many as 32 children. Their children include figures such as Chao Luang Kham Daeng, who is the greatest of all spirits in Lanna; Chao Soi, who protects the city of Mae Chaem; Chao Buarapha, who protects the city of Haeng; and Chao Somphamitr, who protects the Mae Khanin forest (present-day Hang Dong District), etc.

According to the local chronicles, Pu Sae and Ya Sae were a pair of cannibalistic giants who, along with their son Sudeva, resided in the forests of Doi Suthep and Doi Kham. They terrorized the local inhabitants, feasting on human flesh. The legend recounts that the Lord Buddha, during his travels, arrived in the region and learned of the people's suffering. Using his divine power, the Buddha confronted the three giants. Awed by his compassion and righteousness, they were subdued. The Buddha administered the Five Precepts, instructing them to cease all killing. Their son accepted the teachings immediately, later becoming the revered hermit Sudeva Ruesi, for whom Doi Suthep is named.

Left (A statue of white khao kham) Right (A statue of black khao kham)

Pu Sae and Ya Sae, however, found it impossible to abandon their primal nature entirely. They pleaded with the Buddha, asking for permission to eat human flesh at least once a year. The Buddha did not grant this request. The ogres then attempted to negotiate, gradually asking instead for animal flesh. The Buddha eventually told them to consult the local ruler regarding the matter and then departed, leaving behind a relic of his hair, which would later become enshrined at Wat Phra That Doi Kham. They received permission from the city ruler to eat buffalo once a year. This led to the establishment of a ritual involving the sacrifice of a young buffalo—specifically one with horns no longer than its ears—known as khwai khao kham (ควายเขาคำ). The meat of this buffalo is offered as a sacrifice to the spirits of Pu Sae and Ya Sae annually on the 14th waxing moon day of the ninth month in the Northern Thai lunar calendar. In exchange for this annual offering, the two giants swore an oath to protect the city of Chiang Mai, its people, and the Buddhist faith for 5,000 years. After their deaths, they became powerful guardian spirits, or arak, whose influence over the well-being of the region necessitates the fulfillment of this ancient pact through an annual sacrificial feast.

Liang Dong ceremony

the 1,300-year-old chedi at Doi Kham

The Liang Dong Ceremony (พิธีเลียงดง) is an annual ritual rooted in ancient animist traditions that predate the introduction of Buddhism in northern Thailand. It is typically held around the full moon of the ninth month in the northern Thai lunar calendar, which usually falls in June. The ceremony marks the beginning of the rainy season and the rice cultivation cycle. It is conducted at a ceremonial ground located at the base of Doi Kham in the Mae Hia of Chiang Mai.

The central element of the ceremony is the offering of a black male water buffalo, which must meet specific criteria, such as having horns at least as long as its ears. The animal is ritually sacrificed in a traditional manner. A ma thiam (ม้าเที่ยม), or spirit medium, believed to be possessed by the spirit of Pu Sae, enters a trance-like state and consumes portions of the raw flesh and blood of the animal. This act symbolizes the spirit's acceptance of the offering.

The ritual is organized and attended by members of local communities, particularly descendants of the Lawa people. Senior provincial officials, including the governor of Chiang Mai or their representatives, are often present. The purpose of the Liang Dong Ceremony is to propitiate the guardian spirits, requesting their protection over the forests of the Doi Suthep–Pui watershed, the provision of adequate rainfall for farming, and the safeguarding of the city from natural disasters.

Since 2023, the ceremony has attracted both cultural interest and controversy, particularly from animal rights activists. Nonetheless, it continues to be defended by local communities as an essential and unbroken tradition that maintains harmony between human society and the spiritual world.