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Willy Chavarria
Willy Chavarria, an American fashion designer, standing against a background of plain tiles
Born1967 (age 57–58)
Huron, California, U.S.
EducationAcademy of Art University
OccupationFashion designer
Years active1999–present
LabelWilly Chavarria
AwardsCooper Hewitt National Design Award (2022); CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year (2023, 2024)

Willy Chavarria is an American fashion designer born in Huron, California. He is the founder and Chief Creative Officer of his eponymous label (stylized as WILLY CHAVARRIA), and previously served as the Senior Vice President of Design at Calvin Klein until 2024. He is also the founder and Creative Director of Palmer Trading Company, a New York-based menswear label sold exclusively in Japan.[1] In 2025, Time magazine listed him as one of the world's 100 most influential people.[2]

Early life and education

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Chavarria was born to an Irish-American mother and a Mexican-American father in July 1967.[3] In his early 20s, he attended the Academy of Art University in San Francisco to pursue a degree in graphic design. During his time in school, he found part-time employment at Joe Boxer, working in the shipping department.[1]

Career

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Early beginnings

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During his employment at the Joe Boxer shipping department, Chavarria would spend time after hours working on sketches and designs. This work secured him an internship with Nicholas Graham at Joe Boxer, which developed into a designer role for the company.[4][5] After taking an interest in athletics and personal training, he took a designer role at Voler, a cycling and multi-sport apparel company. At this time, Ralph Lauren was forming a diffusion line for cycling apparel named RLX, and through a collaboration with Voler, Chavarria was hired to work on this new line in 1999.[5]

Palmer Trading Company

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In November 2010, Chavarria and David Ramirez opened Palmer Trading Company as co-owners in New York City. The menswear store carried both vintage goods and contemporary pieces that complemented its Americana aesthetic.[6] The store's in-house label was also sold to retailers globally, including Journal Standard Relume, Steven Alan, and Opening Ceremony.[7] In 2015, the store collaborated with footwear manufacturer Viberg on an ankle-height derby boot.[8]

Willy Chavarria (eponymous label)

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He launched his eponymous label in 2015, and "from his casting to his designs, Mexican American designer Willy Chavarria has always knitted politics into fashion, and fought to see beauty where it is rarely recognized."[9] Since then, his collection has been stocked at prestigious retailers worldwide, including Barneys, Dover Street Market, Browns, and others.

Chavarria became known for his distinct interpretation of men's fashion, mixing race, politics, and sexuality into graceful and elegant apparel.[10] He was one of the first New York designers to cast only models of color and used his shows for political expression.[11][12]

In 2018, he showed his Spring/Summer collection at the Eagle Bar in New York City, juxtaposing religion, lowrider, and leather bar influences.[13] Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist Robin Givhan noted that Willy "produces some of the most socially engaging runway shows in New York."[14] Vogue contributor Nick Remsen wrote that "Chavarria is a smart, worldly creative who knows how to be all-inclusive while still carving out his own distinct M.O."[15]

For his Spring/Summer 2019 collection, Chavarria collaborated with sportswear brand Hummel. The collection referenced late 1990s and early 2000s streetwear in New York City, incorporating skyline graphics, inspirations from brands like Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein, and inverted American flag prints.[16] His work from this season was later featured in the Metropolitan Museum of Art's exhibition "In America: A Lexicon of Fashion."[17]

Chavarria's Fall 2020 collection included sustainable materials in collaboration with textile manufacturer Recyctex, reusing discarded fabric waste.[18] His Spring 2022 runway show featured his signature oversized silhouettes, subversive takes on masculinity, and roots in Chicano subculture. Of the collection, he stated: "I wanted it to feel like couture, to feel regal... and then to shift that against the toughness of New York." He also emphasized a made-to-order model to reduce fashion waste.[19]

Willy Chavarria’s Spring/Summer 2024 show was highly acclaimed with Harper’s Bazaar commenting “[the collection] had charisma, charm, and also something hugely important (though not often touted by the industry), which can often be distinctive of New York fashion: heart.” [20] The brand debuted the Willy Chavarria x adidas collaboration at their Spring Summer 2025 show. The collection featured high-fashion jerseys, ruffly performance tops, tracksuits, tiny running shorts, knee-high socks, and Willy Chavarria's take on the classic adidas Jabbar sneakers.[21]

In January 2025, Chavarria made his debut at Paris Fashion Week with his Fall/Winter 2025 collection, titled "Tarantula", marking the tenth anniversary of his label. The show took place at the American Cathedral in Paris and featured his signature voluminous tailoring in luxurious fabrics such as velvet and silk, with chiaroscuro-inspired lighting. The collection included collaborative looks with Adidas and appearances by models including Indya Moore and Paloma Elsesser. During the finale, a recorded sermon by Episcopal Bishop Mariann Edgar Budde was played, calling for compassion and inclusivity, and reinforcing the show's message of social justice and spirituality. The production underscored Chavarria's reputation for emotional, inclusive runway presentations.[22][23][24]

Awards and nominations

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Notable works

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  • Creative consultant for Yeezy Gap[1]
  • Collaboration with Danish brand Hummel in 2018[30]
  • Collaboration with Danish workwear brand KANSAS in 2019[31]
  • "Falling Stars" sweater, 2019[17]
  • K-Swiss collaborative footwear, 2020[32]
  • Dickies collaboration for Willy Chavarria Fall 2022 menswear show "UNCUT"[33]

Personal life

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Chavarria is openly gay.[34][35]

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References

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  1. ^ a b c "The Quiet Triumph of Willy Chavarria". GOAT. Retrieved October 24, 2022.
  2. ^ a b G, Becky (April 16, 2025). "Willy Chavarria: The 100 Most Influential People of 2025". Time. Retrieved April 19, 2025.
  3. ^ Trebay, Guy (September 8, 2021). "Mr. Chavarria Will See You Now". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  4. ^ "CFDA". CFDA. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  5. ^ a b Bobila, Maria (July 12, 2017). "How Willy Chavarria Went From a Pack-and-Ship Job at Joe Boxer to Running His Own Menswear Label". Fashionista. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  6. ^ Idacavage, Sara. "Palmer Trading Company". NYMag.com. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  7. ^ Caramanica, Jon (December 23, 2010). "Palmer Trading Company: A Twice-Told Tale". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  8. ^ "Palmer Trading Company x Viberg Spring 2015 Bad Seed Service Boot". Hypebeast. May 3, 2015. Retrieved November 14, 2022.
  9. ^ "Willy Chavarria Designed For a Brooklyn Immigrant Soccer League". PAPER. November 5, 2018. Retrieved November 14, 2022.
  10. ^ Trebay, Guy (July 25, 2019). "Willy Chavarria's House Music". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  11. ^ "Review: Willy Chavarria put a different kind of model on his runway. The effect was powerful". The Washington Post. ISSN 0190-8286. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  12. ^ Fraser, Kristopher (July 26, 2019). "Willy Chavarria's immigration inspired take on minimalism". FashionUnited. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  13. ^ "This Cruising-Themed Fashion Show Took Place in a Leather Bar". Vice. July 13, 2017. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  14. ^ "'To show them in a kind of glory': How a high-end designer celebrates working-men chic". The Washington Post. ISSN 0190-8286. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  15. ^ "Willy Chavarria Spring 2020 Menswear Collection". Vogue. July 25, 2019. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  16. ^ "Willy Chavarria Saluted New York Heritage for SS19". Hypebeast. July 10, 2018. Retrieved November 14, 2022.
  17. ^ a b "In America: A Lexicon of Fashion". The Met. Retrieved March 19, 2023.
  18. ^ "Willy Chavarria Fall 2020 Menswear Collection". Vogue. January 14, 2020. Retrieved November 14, 2022.
  19. ^ "Willy Chavarria Spring 2022 Menswear Collection". Vogue. September 9, 2021. Retrieved November 14, 2022.
  20. ^ https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/a45143423/luar-willy-chavarria-nyfw-spring-2024/
  21. ^ https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/willy-chavarria-adidas-collab-ss25/
  22. ^ Carter, Ashleigh (January 21, 2025). "Willy Chavarria's Paris Fashion Week Debut Made LGBTQ+ Rights Front and Center". Teen Vogue. Retrieved April 12, 2025.
  23. ^ Ruben, Howard (January 22, 2025). "eBay, Willy Chavarria partner during Paris Men's Fashion Week". Fashion Dive. Retrieved April 12, 2025.
  24. ^ "Willy Chavarria's Paris Debut Was Romantic, Resilient and Real". Hypebeast. January 19, 2025. Retrieved April 12, 2025.
  25. ^ "Willy Chavarria". The Woolmark Prize. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  26. ^ "Willy Chavarria Honored With National Award for Fashion Design". Complex. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  27. ^ a b "Willy Chavarria Wants to Uplift the People". W Magazine. October 18, 2022. Retrieved November 7, 2022.
  28. ^ https://hypebeast.com/2024/10/willy-chavarria-american-menswear-designer-of-the-year-2024-cfda-fashion-awards-winner-list
  29. ^ "Here Are This Year's CFDA Award Winners". Harper's Bazaar. Retrieved January 25, 2024.
  30. ^ "spreadthe5683: a partnership with willy x hummel". Rooklyn International Football Association. July 3, 2019. Retrieved October 24, 2022.
  31. ^ "Willy Chavarria Drops Functional Winter Workwear With Denmark's KANSAS". Hypebeast. February 11, 2019. Retrieved November 14, 2022.
  32. ^ "Willy Chavarria FW19 Collection Plays Up Exaggerated Shapes and Silhouettes". Hypebeast. February 26, 2019. Retrieved November 14, 2022.
  33. ^ "Dickies Classics Reimagined as Part of Willy Chavarria's Fall 2022 Show". Complex. Retrieved October 24, 2022.
  34. ^ "Omar Apollo Opens Up About When He First Realized He Was Gay". Out. Retrieved May 10, 2023.
  35. ^ "Willy Chavarria is Just Getting Started". Town & Country. February 26, 2023. Retrieved May 10, 2023.
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